Living in Santa Marta, Colombia as an Expat

By Trevor Hogarth · Last updated October 25, 2026

Santa Marta has something no other Colombian city can match: Caribbean beaches with the Sierra Nevada mountains rising right behind them. Tayrona National Park, the mountain town of Minca and the fishing village of Taganga are all close by. It’s easy to see why so many foreigners fall for it on vacation.

Living here full time is a different experience, and there’s one issue every potential resident needs to understand before moving: water. This guide covers that, plus neighbourhoods, safety, healthcare and the pros and cons. For the budget, see my cost of living in Santa Marta breakdown. A comfortable expat lifestyle usually costs 1,300 to 2,000 USD a month. If you’re coming from North America, my story about moving from Canada to Colombia covers how my own move went.

Where expats live in Santa Marta

  • El Rodadero: A beach neighbourhood south of the centre with high-rise apartments, restaurants and a walkable beachfront. The most popular choice for foreigners. Busy with Colombian tourists in high season.
  • Bello Horizonte: Newer beach developments near the airport, quieter and more residential.
  • Pozos Colorados: Modern towers and condos on the beach between El Rodadero and the airport. Popular with retirees and families.
  • Centro Histórico: The old town and marina, with restaurants and nightlife. Charming but hot, noisy and more touristy.
  • Taganga and Minca: Small and scenic, but better as weekend escapes than for full-time city life for most people.

The water problem in Santa Marta

This is the most important thing to know. Santa Marta has had chronic drinking-water shortages for years. The city’s supply depends largely on rivers flowing from the Sierra Nevada, and in dry periods, or when something disrupts the system, there simply isn’t enough.

A few examples of what this looks like:

  • In 2022 the city declared a calamidad pública (public emergency) over water shortages and restricted uses like filling swimming pools.
  • In January 2025, a protest blockade on the Río Piedra cut the output of the main Mamatoco treatment plant to about 45% of capacity, and the water utility ESSMAR delivered water to hotels by truck.
  • Scheduled cuts lasting 9 to 12 hours have affected El Rodadero, Gaira and the tourist corridor.

How to protect yourself when renting or buying:

  • Ask whether the building has a reserve tank (tanque de reserva) and a pump. Most modern towers do, and it makes outages much easier to live with.
  • Ask the building administrator or neighbours how often the water goes out and for how long.
  • Budget for occasional water-truck (carrotanque) costs, which some buildings pass on to residents.

Weather

Santa Marta is hot all year, with highs around 32 °C. It’s drier than Cartagena or Barranquilla, which feels good, but it’s also why water is scarce. Air conditioning is standard and adds to your electricity bill.

Is Santa Marta safe for foreigners?

Most expat areas, such as El Rodadero and Pozos Colorados, are manageable with normal precautions. The usual Colombian risks apply: phone theft, scams, and the drugging and dating-app robberies the US State Department warns about nationwide (Colombia is currently Level 3, “Reconsider Travel”). Ask locals before walking around the centre or quieter beaches at night.

Healthcare

Santa Marta has private clinics that handle everyday and many specialist needs. For complex treatment, many residents travel to Barranquilla (about 1.5–2 hours away), which has some of the best hospitals on the coast. Private doctor visits typically cost 30 to 60 USD.

Getting around and flights

Simón Bolívar International Airport (SMR), between El Rodadero and Pozos Colorados, has frequent domestic flights to Bogotá and Medellín. For most international trips you’ll connect through Bogotá, or drive to Barranquilla or Cartagena.

Pros and cons of living in Santa Marta

Pros

  • Beaches, mountains and Tayrona National Park on your doorstep
  • Cheaper than Cartagena
  • Drier heat than the rest of the coast
  • Laid-back pace of life

Cons

  • Recurring water shortages
  • Smaller city with fewer services and specialist doctors
  • Crowded with tourists in December–January and Semana Santa
  • Few direct international flights

Frequently asked questions

Is Santa Marta a good place to live?

For people who love the beach and nature and are prepared for the water situation, yes. If you need big-city services, Barranquilla or Medellín may suit you better.

How much does it cost to live in Santa Marta?

A comfortable expat lifestyle is usually 1,300 to 2,000 USD a month. See the full Santa Marta cost of living breakdown.

Does Santa Marta have water problems?

Yes. The city has recurring water shortages and scheduled cuts. Choose a building with a reserve tank and pump.

Related guides

About the author

Trevor Hogarth — I’m a Canadian who moved to Colombia in 2020. I’ve lived in Medellín, Antioquia, and Ibagué, Tolima, and the costs on this site come from real life here, not guesses. Read my story: moving from Canada to Colombia →

Scroll to Top